jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Jul 8, 2016 7:35:52 GMT -5
Here we are 'jacking Ned's thread...but he's cool with it. The bike ran beautifully with J&R's - no flat spots, no four-stroking and good power everywhere. Leo said it pinged a little at WFO for a minute or 2..I never heard that but I trust him for sure. When I switched to the Dencos I increased the main jet but then have the blubbering at low throttle opening. Curtis, the bike was on the dyno and the curve looked nice to my untrained eye. I think it made 75HP and was still pulling but I had asked John to shut it down at 7500. I agree with Moo the slide cut out might be the issue and I would also love to try the UFOs - maybe I can convince LC to come over and help me do that. When I first put the motor in it had 190 mains and it would power wheelie in second gear with no effort. That was running premix with the oil passages blocked. I've been told since the beginning the mains are too small, but plug colour is good and no sign of running lean..weird. Joergen - did you match your inlets to the cylinders? I hogged out the rubber the best I could but there is a bit of interference from the metal reinforcement in the spiggot. Hogged out the rubber? What do you mean by that? Did'nt you put on the mikuni rubber inlets made for the 38's??
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Post by zambia on Jul 8, 2016 7:57:05 GMT -5
Yes - I used specific inlets for 38mm Mikuni (for dirt bike I believe) but they did not match my intake exactly - I think the intake port has been opened up somewhat on my cylinders.
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Jul 9, 2016 2:49:49 GMT -5
Ok Ian, just had to check.
On mine (before I went for the carb to bore pependicular positioning) I had to modify the upper part of inlet entrance to Ensure as laminar flow as possible.
On what rpm can you smack the throttle to WOT in high gear without bogging?
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Post by zambia on Jul 9, 2016 15:42:37 GMT -5
I can "roll on" at 3000 in any gear and it puts down smooth power. If I crank it wide open, it would need to be 4,000 to avoid some bog.
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Post by Ned on Sept 15, 2016 7:30:19 GMT -5
I did the 15 plate conversion and it solved my slip issue!
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Post by Walms on Sept 15, 2016 8:29:53 GMT -5
Now do the same with your 500!
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Post by Ned on Sept 15, 2016 11:10:27 GMT -5
Now do the same with your 500! The 500 doesn't slip.
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Post by rocket on Sept 15, 2016 11:19:13 GMT -5
Hey Dave , do you have a link to the parts that you needed for your clutch plate mod ? I want to do that to mine also this winter . I know walms has done his also ... thanks
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Post by Ned on Sept 15, 2016 11:25:41 GMT -5
Hey Dave , do you have a link to the parts that you needed for your clutch plate mod ? I want to do that to mine also this winter . I know walms has done his also ... thanks I just went to Burlington Cycle and ordered 7 steel H1 plates and stole the extra fibre from the spare H2 engine someone left in my garage. Walms will have to tell us how he did his.
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Post by Walms on Sept 15, 2016 11:37:35 GMT -5
I bought thinner steel disks from Barnett's (1.3mm from memory) and also thinned the washer behind the basket .020" Ned, I didn't realize you hadn't reached that plateau with your H1 that your clutch slips yet...
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Post by Ned on Sept 22, 2016 6:35:51 GMT -5
I went LED for the headlight. Bought a Hella lens. Adapter ring from Diablo. Assembled unit. And in the bike. No, I haven't ridden it yet.
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Post by Ned on Sept 23, 2016 8:50:56 GMT -5
Low beam High beam
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Post by Ned on Sept 28, 2016 11:52:36 GMT -5
I put one of these cheap VMs on my bike. worked great, until I started the bike, then.....0.00! LOL
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Post by zambia on Sept 28, 2016 12:06:56 GMT -5
Pardon my lack of knowledge - but is that wired before the regulator? Or directly to the battery?
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Post by Ned on Sept 28, 2016 14:24:44 GMT -5
Pardon my lack of knowledge - but is that wired before the regulator? Or directly to the battery? 2 available switched wires I found in the headlight bucket.
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