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Post by givr on Mar 28, 2008 21:16:23 GMT -5
Got some H2 parts powdercoated for Brawney. Lots to go yet....whew!  |
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Post by Chrome it! on Mar 28, 2008 21:46:09 GMT -5
Those look familier  Gloss level looks great! ;D ;D ;D |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2008 22:15:34 GMT -5
Lookin Good Anthony  With some help from Roland the chain guards and fenders are blasted and lookin good to go also.  seat pans to be blasted by end of next week....Then you can GIVR somemore. brawney  |
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Post by Walms on Mar 28, 2008 23:03:50 GMT -5
Nice work Anthony !
Does powdercoat come in clear?
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Post by givr on Mar 29, 2008 6:31:11 GMT -5
Yes. I can get clear powdercoat from my local source. I've never tried it, but it's easily available. Next time I'm there, I'll buy a can of it.
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Post by Walms on Mar 29, 2008 7:23:00 GMT -5
Can you find out what temp it's good for? I'm thinking about the pipes.... I'm considering this stuff for near the cylinder...something different, I guess.  Yes. I can get clear powdercoat from my local source. I've never tried it, but it's easily available. Next time I'm there, I'll buy a can of it. |
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Post by s3steve on Mar 29, 2008 9:31:14 GMT -5
"Gloss level looks great! ;D ;D "
+1 on that!! Looks great!!
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Post by H2 Dude on Mar 29, 2008 12:18:40 GMT -5
geeez how many bikes is Brawney building here  I have trouble just doing mine. ;D Looking good Anthony Ian |
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Post by tripletwerp on Mar 29, 2008 13:09:37 GMT -5
Can you find out what temp it's good for? I'm thinking about the pipes.... I'm considering this stuff for near the cylinder...something different, I guess. Remember that the wrapped metal cannot cool properly and the header wrap is causing the material to super-heat and pre-maturely fail! and that the engine will run hotter as the pipes are running hotter and dispersing less heat and that stuff stinks to high heaven after you ride in the rain  the performance benefit with a four stroke is related to the higher temp inside the pipe, but for our applications I would think it would be preferable to have heat sink coolers rather than an insulator |
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Post by givr on Mar 29, 2008 18:44:50 GMT -5
Can you find out what temp it's good for? I'm thinking about the pipes.... I'm considering this stuff for near the cylinder...something different, I guess. I can't get clear in high temp application, I can get gloss black, flat black, and silver which are good to prolonged temperatures up to 1000°F. If you want clear, try the VHT clear spray bomb, 10 bucks a can. Formulation SP115.  Here's some more information about it; Tired of continually polishing aluminum or pot metal?
Here's the complete long term answer! Clearcoat It.
1. Polish the part (for the last time), spray on a coat of Clear VHT and allow to dry.
2. Take the bike, or car, for a spin, and the engine heat will cure the coating!
3. That's it! Finished - for good!
4. Ideal for Use on:
* Automotive Exhaust
* Snowmobiles Jet Ski
* Motorcycle Exhaust & aluminum parts
* Barbecues Franklin Stoves Fireplaces Mufflers
VHT FlameProof coating was originally developed some 30 years ago and is now used as a protective coating for the white-hot surfaces of space-bound and re-entry vehicles.
Since its inception, new ideas for applications have been developed by numerous industrial, automotive, and electrical engineers. These include aerospace hardware, smoke stacks, jet engines, heat exchangers, boilers, heaters, exhaust manifolds, mufflers, steam pipes, barbecues, electrical hardware, and countless other applications where resistance to high temperatures and/or weathering is required.
Leading major industrial firms have come to rely on VHT FlameProof coating to solve many of their most difficult problems. Firms such as IBM, Corning glass, Colt Industries, B.F. Goodrich, Bechtol Corporation, Combustion Engineering, Air Research, Alcoa, RCA, Raytheon, NASA, Hughes Aircraft Lockheed, Cessna, North American Rockwell, and countless others equally impressive have benefited by VHT's progress in high temperature coatings.
Surface preparation:
1. No special surface preparation is required, except removal of oil films, etc.
2. Anodized, irridited and alodyned surfaces can be directly coated with VHT FlameProof for lower temperature use only.
Thinning:
Thin as necessary with a quality grade lacquer thinner available from local supplier. Do not thin more than 25% by volume.
Application:
Apply a THIN, even coat - just enough to thoroughly COLOR. Excessive build-up is not necessary or recommended. In applications requiring heavy coating, build-up should be done in stages, each successive coat being cured as recommended below nominal coating wet thickness .0015" - .002". VHT FlameProof coatings require no primer.
Curing:
On non-traffic surfaces and where solvent resistance is not required, VHT FlameProof coating may be used as is. Air-dried curing may be accomplished by the inherent heat of operation such as encountered in engine manifolds and exhausts, boilers, heaters, etc. or by following the curing instructions below. VHT FlameProof coatings will air dry in 15 to 30 minutes and, if handled with reasonable care, may be put to immediate use.
Heat curing method for maximum resistance to solvents, salt spray, humidity, thermal shock and heat:
In a dedicated electric oven:
* 15 minutes at 250°F
* 30 minutes at 600°F
* 1 hour at 800°F
* 30 minutes at 1,000°F.
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Post by Walms on Mar 30, 2008 7:16:30 GMT -5
Thanks, that's the stuff I need. As far as the wrap goes, not sure if I agree with the metal overheating causing premature failure, we're not talking a huge temperature change here... From what I've read, heating up the pipe isn’t necessarily a bad thing… The sound waves will flow faster in a hotter pipe. Effectively shortening the tuned length a wee bit. It might be another tool for tuning the pipe...We’ll have to wait and see if it can be felt on the butt dyno… ;D Sorry for hijacking yer thread Givr… |
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Post by tripletwerp on Mar 30, 2008 8:06:16 GMT -5
Thanks, that's the stuff I need. As far as the wrap goes, not sure if I agree with the metal overheating causing premature failure, we're not talking a huge temperature change here... From what I've read, heating up the pipe isn’t necessarily a bad thing… The sound waves will flow faster in a hotter pipe. Effectively shortening the tuned length a wee bit. It might be another tool for tuning the pipe...We’ll have to wait and see if it can be felt on the butt dyno… ;D Sorry for hijacking yer thread Givr… buddy it makes a thin header pipe near molten- nascar teams found that they had to replace the headers after each race when running wrap, besides it is fugly you have to run a lean mixture to get the slim performance gain, if you run a rich mixture, the gain will be neglible or nil no header manufacturer will warranty their pipes if they have been wrapped I use the stuff on my hotrod, the greatest benefit to me is a reduction in under hood temps, a common challenge with a rod, the wrap is best for protecting other items from heat if required, I fried some electronics before I installed mine (should have put the wrap on them ) ;D I know I am shortening the life of my log manifolds (even) with it, since they fatique in lighter duty service on a softer engine in a cooler engine bay Sorry for hijacking yer thread , again , Givr… |
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Post by connorsracing on Mar 30, 2008 8:30:51 GMT -5
I know of sled riders, and even some car racers that use these guys... www.fireballcoatings.com/They're close by to most of us...mite be worth looking into.. ...oh... I'm NOT sorry for hijacking!!! ;D Gary |
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Post by tripletwerp on Mar 30, 2008 8:33:26 GMT -5
I know of sled riders, and even some car racers that use these guys... www.fireballcoatings.com/They're close by to most of us...mite be worth looking into.. ...oh... I'm NOT sorry for hijacking!!! ;D Gary of course not, you're a sorry sort already "ceramic coating, inside and outside, multi-layer " |
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Post by Walms on Mar 30, 2008 8:38:41 GMT -5
Thanks, that's the stuff I need. As far as the wrap goes, not sure if I agree with the metal overheating causing premature failure, we're not talking a huge temperature change here... From what I've read, heating up the pipe isn’t necessarily a bad thing… The sound waves will flow faster in a hotter pipe. Effectively shortening the tuned length a wee bit. It might be another tool for tuning the pipe...We’ll have to wait and see if it can be felt on the butt dyno… ;D Sorry for hijacking yer thread Givr… buddy it makes a thin header pipe near molten- nascar teams found that they had to replace the headers after each race when running wrap, besides it is fugly you have to run a lean mixture to get the slim performance gain, if you run a rich mixture, the gain will be neglible or nil no header manufacturer will warranty their pipes if they have been wrapped I use the stuff on my hotrod, the greatest benefit to me is a reduction in under hood temps, a common challenge with a rod, the wrap is best for protecting other items from heat if required, I fried some electronics before I installed mine (should have put the wrap on them ) ;D I know I am shortening the life of my log manifolds (even) with it, since they fatique in lighter duty service on a softer engine in a cooler engine bay Sorry for hijacking yer thread , again , Givr… I think you are comparing apples to oranges...2 strokes don't run as hot as the 4 strokes... Come to think of it, I've never seen a set of chromed chambers discoloured from exhaust gases like with 4 strokes either... At any rate, if I do decide to use the stuff, I'll be sure to get back to you on my findings... |
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