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Post by lc on Dec 6, 2011 15:56:13 GMT -5
I'm thinking a way to rid the fumes would be to use alcohol rinse a few times and then give it the shop vac exhaust treatment to dry. Water rusts things too fast before it drys.
J
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Post by Walms on Dec 6, 2011 16:52:12 GMT -5
I've witnessed the auto exhaust method before on my old dirt bikes without issue... If you are concerned with the moisture, just make sure your car is good and hot before you plug it in... Regarding this method, not sure why it works, maybe the carbon monoxide??? But it really does get the stink out!
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Post by Curtis on Dec 7, 2011 6:08:04 GMT -5
On the topic of the brazing...
Don is right, you need to have the steel just beyond red hot, its almost easier if you hold the torch at one end of the split and face the flame the other way, moving it back and forth from one end to the other slowly. When its at the point where its about to blow threw, touch then far end with the brass rod while your flame is on the other end, the heat will pull the brass down into the crack and over to the other side.
I have also had good luck with steel coat hangers, just throw them on the wire wheel to remove the paint first. They are a bit more finicky, but do work and work just as well.
The hose from the exhaust into the tank, its the carbon monoxide that breaks down the gas particles.
I wouldn't want to give a big alcohol rinse, as alcohol is just as flammable as gas is ( I assume you are talking about iso propylene or methyl hydrate)
You should be fine draining the tank, using compressed air to get the little droplets out, then letting it sit for a day or so with the tank open to help it evaporate, then running the car exhaust through it.
Curtis
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Post by Soupdragon1957 on Dec 7, 2011 7:03:58 GMT -5
Or you could buy a POR 15 kit from Caswell & seal the tank with it. I have not had any problems with my 400 tank in the 4 years since I lined it..
SoupD.
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Post by lc on Dec 7, 2011 11:52:42 GMT -5
Or you could buy a POR 15 kit from Caswell & seal the tank with it. I have not had any problems with my 400 tank in the 4 years since I lined it.. SoupD. This is fine for a late tank that is held on with a rubber strap. However the early tanks may need weld repairs from time to time (on their fwd mounts). As such I can see a liner peeling from the heat of welding, no thanks.... J
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Post by Walms on Dec 7, 2011 15:06:15 GMT -5
It's funny you mention that LC... Every dirtbike I had with a bolt on tank needed welding from time to time to fix leaks... Probably the result from my nuts hammering it on a regular basis...lol Gotta love the way my tank is rubber mounted on my KH for that reason, plus I can have the tank off in a matter of seconds without tools.
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Post by Walms on Dec 8, 2011 9:24:22 GMT -5
It looks from the picture that it was done with braze. Hopefully just discolouration of the weld. Braze will not hold long term.... Not ball sack proof.
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Post by Curtis on Dec 8, 2011 21:43:16 GMT -5
Cut the bad part out, and have your guy mig or tig in a new piece of steel. the seat will hide it anyways
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Post by Walms on Dec 8, 2011 22:45:08 GMT -5
I should mention my fixes were to dirt bikes which would see more abuse then 2nd gear wheelies and a Ton now and again... ;D If it were me and she's liquid tight, I'd ride'r til she starts to seep. Then at that point grind off the brass and do what Curtis said.
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pk
2nd Gear
Posts: 77
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Post by pk on Jan 6, 2012 10:27:04 GMT -5
Need someone local that is good with a TIG, and not scared of a gas tank.. J I know a guy in Mississauga Scott... He's a good tig welder but not sure if he has a phobia with gas fumes though. He is a younger fella so that could be positive. ;D It's funny how people fails to see the obvious. When welding a gas tank you should use either TIG or MAG (MIG), preferably TIG. Don’t be so hung up on removing gas and fumes. Instead you should concentrate on removing the oxygen. When using TIG or MAG (MIG) you have access to loads of shielding gas (Argon, Carbon dioxide, or a mix). Just put a steady flow of shielding gas into your tank and it will displace the air in the tank in a couple of minutes. No oxygen = No bang. The car exhaust trick was actually quite clever. PK
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Post by Walms on Jan 6, 2012 12:01:59 GMT -5
Funny you mention this... The same guy I mentioned in Miss. Said the same thing, he said half of the work he does is in Ti so he's used to gas purging anyway... I do remember using a nitrogen purge when heat treating steel a bunch of years back, it prevents any oxidization even when heating steel to 850 deg c Pretty cool!
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Post by rocket on Jul 16, 2014 21:58:51 GMT -5
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Post by rocket on Jul 16, 2014 22:11:19 GMT -5
Ive purchased 2 after market throttle cables for my bike and both were complete crap . I now have a brand new from Japan just like the original throttle cable . I just wish someone had told me earlier that you can still get the original replacement throttle cable for the H1 . Would have saved me a bit of money and a ton of headaches that the after market cables will give you with there cheap $hitty quality and and horrible plastic design and also they are too dam short !!!
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Post by 2smoke on Jul 17, 2014 0:49:48 GMT -5
Rocket!
Didn't realize you had a build thread for your 500. I am still green here Lol. Read it all. Super cool stuff. Very interesting reading. Was that new throttle cable available from your Kawi dealer?
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Post by rocket on Jul 17, 2014 7:13:00 GMT -5
Rocket!
Didn't realize you had a build thread for your 500. I am still green here Lol. Read it all. Super cool stuff. Very interesting reading. Was that new throttle cable available from your Kawi dealer?
Hell , I've been here since 2010 and I've blown this thing up twice lol or maybe it ain't funny but hey ,,,I'm learning . I've only broke things all my life , never fixed em ,,,so this has been very new to me also over the last few years . Absolutely new from Miss Kawasaki Pick your fave !!! . I'm liking the triple group myself
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