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Post by rz350ypvs on Oct 14, 2015 17:57:58 GMT -5
My kick starter was very loose, it was really annoying me so I decided to do something about it. I machined a slightly larger pin and drilled out the worn holes.. and I found a new ball and spring for the detent.. much better.
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Post by Curtis on Oct 14, 2015 18:26:44 GMT -5
Good job. Nice stuff action now?
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Post by toxic76 on Oct 15, 2015 13:36:18 GMT -5
Mine suffers from the same slop, were did you find the oversize pin?
I was going to try to make something work with a modified bolt of the right size but decided that would not look good.
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Post by rz350ypvs on Oct 15, 2015 15:25:26 GMT -5
Good job. Nice stuff action now? It could be better, but it was terrible before. I made the pin out of stainless.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 21, 2015 16:07:50 GMT -5
I just repaired one using a bolt. Turned the hex head down round like a pin, turned the grip down to match the 9.4" reamed to round holes in the lever and spline'd block. Even then it still kinda sucked so I put a shim in between the block and lever forked end. It added a bit of friction and now it is tight. Basically took up the worn area of the spline'd block plus a few extra thous. Almost forgot-popped the ball and spring from a 3/4 inch extension and used that after boring a new ball bearing ball hole. LOL
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Post by rz350ypvs on Dec 21, 2015 16:22:16 GMT -5
Mine could use a shim too.
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Post by sf on Dec 21, 2015 18:49:52 GMT -5
I think some one has a kit with a bronze bushing I read some where......
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Post by III on Dec 21, 2015 22:25:22 GMT -5
I think some one has a kit with a bronze bushing I read some where...... Jeff on the K2S and KTOG forums, JRD offers a service to re-bush kick starters, gearshift levers and does a fantastic job I have heard. Makes new stainless pins for them as well. Link to K2S PostGreat guy with a fast turn around.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2015 16:28:51 GMT -5
Brass will likely wear fast on the shift linkage with all that vibration, that's why Kawasaki selected steel. I think this might be a better way.
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Post by Ned on Dec 22, 2015 17:45:14 GMT -5
Brass will likely wear fast on the shift linkage with all that vibration, that's why Kawasaki selected steel. I think this might be a better way. That is the method I use.
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jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Dec 22, 2015 20:28:44 GMT -5
Brass will likely wear fast on the shift linkage with all that vibration, that's why Kawasaki selected steel. I think this might be a better way. That is the method I use.
It took 40 years for the holes to wear. I drill and ream the worn holes, press in brass bushings and ream. I make the stainless steel pins to fit with about .0005 clearance ( a half thousandth ). All long as it's lubed, I don't think you'll wear it out.
I do that for the shifter mechanism, the shifter pivot* and also the kick starter.
* I'm limited on exactly what clearance I have with the shifter bolt since I fit the shifter to work smoothly with the bolt.
The only bad part on offering this to my friends up North is the price of shipping.
Jeff
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Post by Walms on Dec 22, 2015 21:06:23 GMT -5
It's a top shelf service you offer Jeff, perfect for the guy that wants to restore.
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Post by III on Dec 22, 2015 22:05:03 GMT -5
It's a top shelf service you offer Jeff, perfect for the guy that wants to restore. And as for shipping to Canada being expensive, there are some folks who frequently cross over a few times a year. Also a few who live nearby the border and travel to the states often who can ferry items across if need be.
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jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Dec 22, 2015 22:39:05 GMT -5
It's a top shelf service you offer Jeff, perfect for the guy that wants to restore. And as for shipping to Canada being expensive, there are some folks who frequently cross over a few times a year. Also a few who live nearby the border and travel to the states often who can ferry items across if need be. Thanks Walms, I take a lot of pride in my work. I'm more than willing to ship to somebody close to up North. That would make it a lot more affordable.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 23, 2015 5:27:00 GMT -5
I got my rod ends for 20 bucks CDN for both at Princess Auto, cut a bolt head off and ran a die over the other end. I had actually started to make bushings for my shifter and mid way looked over at my sons R6 and R1 and then gave my head a shake(WTF)! LOL
I used stepped bolts to fill the hole in the stock arm and splin'd block because the rod ends have a slightly smaller bore. Like a whoar, the 40 year old mechanism was loose well before it hit 40 to be totally worn out! Even loose it basically shifted the same as new. No offense intended to your business venture and quality workmanship but some of us like to do it for ourselves differently, and have it tighter. Just glad someone invented the ball joint! I'm looking at the brake arm pivot and thinking 2 needle bearings and seals. Why don't you offer a rod end service too and expand your business?
rt
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