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Post by shiloh on Jul 26, 2015 6:29:06 GMT -5
Been thinking about this for a while now, and wondering if it could be done? The S3 mounts look like they may be suitable. There are 6 shafted mounts and 2 barrel shaped mounts for the engine case, Q. are these hard to find?, or could these be easily fabbed with suitable available mat`ls.? Also to make this truely an engine isolation system, the rear upper case mount/hanger would also need to be damped. The reason I`m considering this, is as most who have ridden an S2 know that at sustained high speed, these little bikes vibrate the feeling right out of your hands, not much fun on longer trips. If anyone here has considered or done this conversion, input would be greatly appreciated. Out to the shop now to look things over.
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Post by sf on Jul 26, 2015 22:35:09 GMT -5
Interested
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Post by shiloh on Aug 2, 2015 7:06:04 GMT -5
Ok, I've pulled the engine and it looks like I'll have @ 20mm nominal on all of the mounting bosses. I think that'll be plenty. Next I'll start searching for suitable shouldered bushings with in those parametres and about 25mm long. I think I'll also entertain bushing the rear upper and front upper frame tubes for added isolation. Might as well go all out. I'll let you know how I make out.
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Post by H2 Dude on Aug 2, 2015 9:13:57 GMT -5
Can't remember the board name from the Kawi2stroke forum but he rubber mounted a S2A and some others in the UK have. Try posting on the US site
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Post by shiloh on Aug 2, 2015 10:16:07 GMT -5
Cool, thanx Ian. found one thread but he didn`t really explain what he used other than he drilled and installed rubber mounts.
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Post by shiloh on Aug 5, 2015 5:39:26 GMT -5
Got the motor back in, test drive tonite to see how much if any improvement was gained. After looking harder at the mounts, I only increased the mount bosses to 5/8", 20mm would have left the walles too thin. Stuffed some rubber plugs in the holes and reused the 10mm mounteing bolts, not much cussion, a tight 1/8", but any improvement is better than non. Pretty easy mod to do, I did my h2b and it made the bike very drivable on long hauls. Cheers
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Post by shiloh on Aug 5, 2015 17:42:00 GMT -5
Test ride done, greatly improved cruising at 60mph or over the metric tonne, But on hard acceleration its about the same, but definately better for cruising around.
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Post by sf on Aug 5, 2015 22:13:23 GMT -5
Can you post some pics curious to see how this was done
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Post by H2 Dude on Aug 5, 2015 23:03:07 GMT -5
try loosening the mounts off slightly as you may know you cannot squish those rubber mounts. The motor needs to bounce a bit. While out on the GT today I reached down to check motor vibration and yes it is as bad as an H2. Here's the strange thing before rubber mounting the H2B when I revved the motor it just didn't like it much and it told you. The only thing I did was to re adjust 1 float .Now it wants to rev and rev and the motor sounds sooo much better..weird so my theory is the Vibs before must have been frothing the gas in the carbs. Whatever it maybe it's telling it likes the rubber mounting. I also find myself cruising well above the speed limit .. life is good on a rubber mounted H2..
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Post by Lou on Aug 5, 2015 23:39:06 GMT -5
ton of Honda's for sale.
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Post by shiloh on Aug 6, 2015 5:42:06 GMT -5
, yep and Ducs, Beamers, Suzukis, Yami`s wasn`t trying to reinvent the triple, just improve its cruiseability, and it has improved that. sf, sorry i didn`t take pics, I`m bad for that, get into the project and before you know it, you`re done and forgot to document it. . Anyway it`s pretty straight forward, remove engine and bore out the mounting bosses. Step drill with progressively larger bits, make sure the boring is straight!!. On my s2a block, 5/8" is pretty much max, that`ll leave @ an 1/8" of meat around the hole, I think any larger and you`d risk breaking out the edges under strain, then your case is pouched. Next step is finding suitabe inserts ( actually I`d find them first, before starting), I did a lot of research and didn`t find much if any, I did how ever found out that later RM250/370`s used rubber mounting bushes, they`re about 15mm od and use 10mm bolts, but couldn`t find prt#`s for them, so that was a dead end for me anyways. I ended up using high pressure rubber tube/hose, that has a slightly large od than 5/8", which aforded a good tight fit in the hole, and has a 10mm id, maybe not the best solution, but it seems to work. That`s about it, I`m sure there are better solutions, but that`s what I did. Cheers Ps, if anyone knows the prt# for those RM bushes plse chime in.
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Post by shiloh on Aug 6, 2015 16:58:46 GMT -5
Ian, took your advise and backed the nuts off a wee bit, gained a bit more enjoyment. Its nice going some distance with out my hands tingling numb.
Another successful mod, happy happy
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Post by Curtis on Aug 6, 2015 18:55:05 GMT -5
What year of RM I can look them up on my fiche
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Post by shiloh on Aug 6, 2015 19:39:18 GMT -5
What year of RM I can look them up on my fiche The article I read wasnt very clear on which yrs other than 1970's probabley mid maybe, seems they added to the bikes latter on. Thats where I ended my search for those, couldnt find prt#s. Most likey nla. But if you do find a # could certinly help the next guy wanting to do this mod. Cheers.
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Post by shiloh on Aug 13, 2015 18:28:17 GMT -5
First chance to really put the boots to her today since doing the conversion, about 60 miles, first thing I noticed was the speedo dosen't wonder as much, it stays pretty steady though all speed ranges. And my hands didn't get all buzz numbed. I also put my other home made cafe tail back on, that dropped 16lbs off the bike, which I found noticeable in acceleration. So Drew change the chart, the bikes lost wieght.
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